The ABCs of Local Food
From biotechnology to kohlrabi, ladybugs to xeriscaping, Dianne Dowling provides an eclectic, informed tour of the wonderful world of farming and food – with a few recipes thrown in for good taste. Art by Caolan Weima Majury.
(Taken from The Local Harvest 2007. View this article as a PDF.)
AAsk where your food comes from and how it was grown. Among the advantages of eating locally grown food is the opportunity to get answers about your food. Did you grow those beans yourself? Were any herbicides used on those fruits and vegetables? Are your eggs from chickens that are kept in cages or barns, or are they able to roam outdoors? What varieties of tomatoes do you grow? How long will this apple keep? For local food, you can talk to the person who grew it. For items grown in New Zealand, California or China, you’ll be left with questions, not answers.
BBiotechnology and the risks it poses. Health Canada, the Canadian Food Inspection Agency, Fisheries and Oceans Canada and Environment Canada have joint responsibility to regulate biotechnology-derived products, which can involve the application of science or engineering to our food. The National Farmers Union is among 16 groups that belong to the Canadian Biotechnology Action Network (www.cban.ca), a coalition of groups from across Canada that are concerned about the risks posed by genetic engineering.
CCommunity gardens. Nowhere to garden at your home? You live in an apartment or your yard is too shady for vegetable production? There could be a community garden in your neighbourhood where, for a small fee, you can use a portion to grow vegetables, herbs or flowers for your own use or to donate to a community meal provider or some other good cause. Contact OPIRG Kingston (www.opirgkingston.org) for more information on community gardens in Kingston.
DDressings. Break free of commercial salad dressings by making your own. Experiment with variations of vinegar and oil dressings or blends based on yogurt or sour cream. Here is an easy recipe from The Harrowsmith Cookbook, Volume Two:
¾ cup sour cream
¼ cup yogurt
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 tbsp. olive oil
salt, pepper and other herbs of your choice
Combine all ingredients and blend well. Keep refrigerated.
EEaters. When it comes to food, let’s call ourselves eaters. Marketers see us as consumers – a cold, depersonalized identity that commodifies us and what we require to sustain us, commercializing and trivializing it. Instead, call yourself an eater. We are all eaters, participants in the intimate act of putting food past our lips, onto the tongue, chewing, savouring, enjoying the taste, the textures, the pleasures of food. At least, that’s the way it should be.
FFennel. A highly aromatic perennial herb, fennel has a flavour similar to anise or licorice. The stems are shaped somewhat like a flattened celery bunch, with long feathery leaves. The stems, leaves and seeds of fennel are used in Middle Eastern and Indian cooking and in a variety of foods, such as soups, stir fries and egg or fish dishes. Our family had a delicious cream of fennel soup this summer – with diced fennel stems, finely chopped fennel leaves and other vegetables.

GGoats. Goats are raised for meat, mohair and dairy products. In 2004, there were more than 62,000 goats in Ontario, 34 per cent of the national herd. While the Ontario herd grew almost 40 per cent from 1996 to 2001, the number of producers in the province, 2,342, declined by seven per cent.

HHeritage seeds and breeds. Seeds of Diversity (www.seeds.ca) is a Canadian charitable organization, dedicated to the conservation, documentation and use of non-hybrid, public domain plants of Canadian significance. It’s a source of information about heritage seeds, seed saving, plant diversity and gardening history, and maintains a seed exchange among its 1,700 members. A similar organization, Rare Breeds Canada (www.rarebreedscanada.ca), works on conserving heritage breeds of livestock.
For more on local heritage seeds, see The Importance of Local Seeds by Katherine Rothermel, on page 13.
IIn season.
Eat blueberries in blueberry season, strawberries in strawberry season, and tomatoes in tomato season. Out of season, you can still eat locally by putting root vegetables in a cold storage area and preserving foods – freezing, pickling, drying, making jams, jellies, chutneys, and salsa. Start small, and follow up-to-date recipes for safe and tasty results. Here is a simple salsa recipe that does not involve canning:
1 lb. tomatillos
½ cup chopped onion
½ cup cilantro leaves
1 tbsp. fresh lime juice
¼ tsp. sugar
2 jalapeno peppers, stemmed, seeded and chopped (note: other hot peppers can be substituted)
salt to taste
Remove papery husks from tomatillos and rinse well. Cut in half and place, cut side down, on a foil-lined baking sheet. Place under a broiler for 5 to 7 minutes to lightly blacken the skins.
Put tomatillos, lime juice, onions, cilantro, peppers and sugar in a food processor or blender and pulse until all ingredients are finely chopped and mixed. Season to taste with salt. Cool in refrigerator.
Serve with chips, or as a salsa accompaniment to Mexican dishes.
JJustice. Everyone has the right to food security – the ability to access a variety of culturally appropriate foods, with sufficient nutrition for good health and at an affordable price. Our food system won’t be just until everyone’s food needs are met.
KKohlrabi. A little-known, hardy biennial, also called turnip-rooted cabbage and stem turnip, it tastes like a combination of mild turnip, radish and cucumber, and is grown as an annual. “It has a swollen stem that makes it look like a turnip on tiptoes. The swollen stem can be white, purple or green, topped with a rosette of blue-green leaves,” Consumer Guide Gardening Quarterly noted in its spring 1976 edition. You can eat the leaves when they are tender – steamed, stir-fried or in a soup. Peel the bulb, and slice it into sections to eat raw or steamed.

LLadybugs. Beneficial insects, like ladybugs, eat insects harmful to plants including aphids, insect eggs and small soft-bodied insects such as mealybugs, scales, small caterpillars and whitefly nymphs. To attract and protect ladybugs, plant pollen and nectar flowers or allow dandelions, yarrow and Queen Anne’s lace to grow among garden plants. To avoid harming ladybug eggs and larvae, spray water (rather than soap or other insecticides) to control aphids.

MMulch. A mulch is any cover spread over the surface of the soil – to conserve moisture, to inhibit weed growth, and to prevent frost damage. A mulch that decomposes (straw, wood chips, sawdust or other plant material, and cardboard or newspaper) will break down and add nutrients to the soil. Thick layers of mulch can be used to kill grass where you want to develop a garden. For an established garden, apply mulch when the soil is wet and has been recently weeded.
NNanotechnology. Imagine applied science and technology controlling matter and creating devices on the molecular scale. While nanotechnology is in its infancy, with few commercial applications so far, concerns have already been raised about the health and environmental implications of creating products based on manipulating extremely small particles. For instance, the very small size of nanomaterials means they are much more readily taken up by living organisms than larger-sized particles, leading to concerns about toxicity. There are societal and economic risks, as well, with nanotechnology predicted to revolutionize how materials are created, and so, radically change factors such as labour markets, international relations and social structures. This revolution will, of course,
affect food production and farming. Keep an eye on the issue – an informed and questioning public will be needed.
OOwls. Owls and other natural predators are an important part of maintaining balance among the plants and animals in an ecosystem. Small rodents, for example, damage and consume garden produce and farm crops. Owls help keep the rodent population in check.

PPreserving farmland for local food production. When the cost of fossil fuel prohibits long distance shipping, as our oil production declines in accordance with peak oil reality, we’ll need farmland nearby to grow food locally. Let municipal, provincial and federal politicians and public servants know that we need farmland for food production, not for highways and housing developments. As Joni Mitchell reminds us:
“You don’t know what you’ve got ‘til it’s gone.
They paved paradise and put up a parking lot.”
QQuestion the global food system. Why are we shipping apples from New Zealand, Chile and South Africa, when we grow apples right here, in the Kingston region? Even apples from British Columbia, while still Canadian, are seasoned travellers by the time they get to us. Why, indeed? Because we have become accustomed to eating out of season. Because we have subsidized fuel and transport systems to bring produce to us below cost. Because gigantic food processing, distribution and retailing companies operate on economies of scale – where costs per unit go down the larger the output – and only want to deal with equally gigantic food producer companies. We, individually and collectively, have the power to change the global food system into thousands of local food systems. Make the individual choice to eat more local food in the months ahead.
RRoot cellar. Once an essential part of the Canadian home, a root cellar provides a cool and humid place to store root vegetables and some other garden and orchard produce. There are some details on how to start one on page 14.
SSlow food. Arising in the 1980s in reaction to ubiquitous fast food outlets, the slow food movement wants us to take pleasure in preparing and eating food. (What a concept!) From the Slow Food Canada web site: “We should learn to enjoy the vast range of recipes and flavours, and recognize the variety of places and people growing and producing food. We should respect the rhythms of the seasons and conviviality.” As well, slow food members support the defence of food and agricultural biodiversity around the world. More than 800 Slow Food Convivia, or chapters, are active in 80 countries.
TTurnips. A hardy biennial grown as an annual, turnips should be harvested when they are one to two inches across. Eat the tops when you are thinning the seedlings. Harvest the roots when they are one to two inches across. Temporarily, they can be left in the ground in the fall and covered with leaves to keep them from freezing. If you still have turnips when the ground is about to freeze, pull them, and coat them in wax to keep them from drying out. Rutabagas, by the way, are a cross between a turnip and a cabbage, and are a fairly modern invention, as vegetables go, being less than 200 years old. Rutabagas have leaf scars on the top of the root; turnips have a smooth top. Rutabagas take longer to grow than turnips, and they grow larger than turnips.

UUrban agriculture. In the urban landscape there are many empty spaces where food can be grown – rooftops, vacant lots, green areas around established buildings, sunny parts of residential lots – in fact, anywhere enough sunlight, water and soil exists or can be provided to sustain plants. In Toronto, FoodShare has several interesting projects involving food production; one involves an unused greenhouse at a mental health centre that became a part of therapy for interested residents and a source of food. In Vancouver, the city council set a goal of 2010 community-shared garden plots by 2010, as an Olympic legacy project.
VVermicomposting. Composting is a natural process in which organic material, such as kitchen scraps and yard waste, decomposes into a dark, nutrient-rich soil amendment called humus. Vermicomposting is just composting with worms. Worms speed up the composting process and, with a worm bin, you can compost indoors, a useful feature for winter composting and for apartment dwellers. Resource Conservation Manitoba has a good description of how to manage a worm-composting bin – do an Internet search for vermicomposting and look for the Resource Conservation Manitoba link.
WWater and warmth. Along with sunlight and healthy soil, water and warmth are important conditions for plant growth. Of course, too little or too much water or warmth creates problems for plants. The climate changes we are experiencing have brought greater variations than we were used to in the decades of the recent past. We will need to find ways to adapt to a new, more difficult environment for farming.
XXeriscaping. Drawing on the Greek word “xeros,” meaning dry, xeriscaping is landscaping with slow-growing, drought-tolerant plants. Dryland Gardening: Plants That Survive And Thrive In Tough Conditions, written by Kingston-area gardening writer and editor Jennifer Bennett and published by Firefly Books, is a beautiful and practical source of information on growing grasses, ground covers, herbs, perennials, annuals, bulbs and shrubs that can cope with global warming and reduced water needs.
YYearning. About an hour into a garden work bee this summer, I asked one of the weeders, kneeling among the vegetables, “How’s it going?” He replied, “This is very satisfying work.” And so it is. Helping things to grow – the actual physical, tactile contact with plants or animals, soil, water, and sunshine – fulfills a basic human need to be in touch with the earth.
ZZest. Every time you eat, try to make good food the point of your eating. Start with as much whole food as possible, learn from good cooks how to prepare those foods, and, among friends, take time to celebrate, appreciate and enjoy your food. Bon appetit!
Dianne Dowling is an elementary school teacher and with her husband owns an organic dairy farm on Howe Island. She has been a member of the National Farmers Union for several years and worked on the Ban Terminator campaign, the Save Our Seeds project, and the Kingston and area NFU Feast of Fields.
Caolan Weima Majury is a grade 10 student at Holy Cross Catholic Secondary School, and a keen student of animals. For several years, he has been bringing pleasure to others through his artwork.

A National Farmers Union Local 316 initiative, Food Down the Road: Toward a Sustainable Local Food System for Kingston and Countryside relies on the generosity of many partners, supporters and volunteers. Food Down the Road is funded in part through contributions by the Government of Canada and the Province of Ontario under the Agricultural Management Institute (AMI), an initiative of the federal-provincial-territorial Agricultural Policy Framework designed to position Canada’s agri-food sector as a world leader. The Agricultural Adaptation Council administers the AMI program on behalf of the Government of Canada and the Province of Ontario.